Bicycle care: Are you still oiling or waxing? Cycling training tips

When was the last time you really took care of your bike chain? I'm not talking about the occasional drop of oil after a rainy ride, but rather a well-thought-out strategy aimed at minimizing friction, maximizing efficiency, and protecting the material.

For a long time, I belonged to the "just add oil and move on" faction – fast, uncomplicated, functional. But sometimes requirements – or ambitions – change. Today I have a topic for you that divides opinions. A self-experiment born of ambition.

In my case, it was preparing for a long-distance race from Madrid to Barcelona. 700 kilometers, non-stop. My goal: to complete the route with over 6,000 meters of elevation gain in 24 hours. Aerodynamics play a major role, as do tires with low rolling resistance, and generally anything that helps utilize marginal gains. When you're fighting for every minute, you eventually start obsessing over admittedly odd details. My question now: should I wax or oil the chain?

Anyone who takes a closer look at chain lubrication for the first time will quickly realize: not all oils are created equal. And what we colloquially refer to as chain oil is, in many cases, not real oil at all, but a synthetically formulated lubricant with special additives.

Basically, chain lubricants can be divided into three main categories: classic lubricants (oils), liquid waxes and solid waxes.

Traditional chain oils are either mineral or synthetic based and are available in different viscosities for dry or wet conditions. They are easy to apply and penetrate the chain links well, but they require regular refills and tend to attract dirt.

Liquid waxes are a kind of hybrid: they combine the ease of application of oil with the clean properties of wax. They are applied like oil, but contain wax components that form a dry, lubricating film after the solvent evaporates. Compared to real hot wax, their performance is somewhat lower, but their application is more suitable for everyday use.

Hot wax offers the highest level of cleanliness and efficiency, but requires extensive preparation and regular re-waxing while molten.

There are also ceramic lubricants, often marketed as "high-tech" solutions. These usually consist of a synthetic carrier fluid with ceramic particles designed to create a particularly low-friction lubricating film. In terms of performance, they fall somewhere between oil and wax, but are also susceptible to contamination.

A side note: Products containing PTFE (Teflon) were widely used in the past, but are now under criticism due to their environmental impact and are increasingly disappearing from the market.

The same applies to everyone: The "best" lubricant depends on the application, the level of maintenance required, the weather, and your personal preferences. It's worth experimenting a bit – and observing what your chain and cassette tell you after a few hundred kilometers.

Oil is the simplest solution in everyday life: You apply it directly to the chain, and after a few turns, everything is smooth. It takes hardly any time, works in almost any weather, and can be easily topped up on the go. The downside, however, is its susceptibility to dirt. Dust, sand, and road particles bind to the oil, forming a greasy film that spreads across the chainrings, cassette, and frame. Not just an aesthetic problem—it also increases friction and decreases efficiency. A potential disadvantage for my 24-hour ride from Madrid to Barcelona.

Wax, on the other hand, works completely differently. It forms a dry, protective layer that neither sticks nor attracts dirt. Anyone who has ever ridden with a waxed chain knows the almost uncannily clean feeling: no black film, no chain grease on your calf, no noise – just a quiet, smooth drivetrain. This comes at a price: Wax requires significantly more initial effort and a certain degree of technical precision.

What's worth considering, however, is the technical advantages. Independent laboratory tests show that a waxed chain saves between two and five watts compared to a conventionally lubricated drivetrain. While maintaining the same power output, this means you can either ride faster or last longer at the same speed. Especially in long-distance races, where efficiency counts over hours, such savings add up to several minutes—sometimes even hours, considering the reduced wear.

To put it in perspective: Five watts more power over 700 kilometers in 24 hours gives me a mathematical time advantage of 11.5 minutes. Some might think: Yes, under laboratory conditions. That may be true – but would you say no to a "free" 11.5 minutes that you can earn without any additional effort just through good preparation?

The most important prerequisite for a successful wax treatment is a completely clean chain. Anyone who thinks a rag and some cleaner are enough will quickly realize: The wax doesn't stick. I soaked my chain several times in solvent, rinsed it in isopropanol, and then cleaned it in a small ultrasonic cleaner. This is the only way to prepare the surface to be free of grease.

The actual waxing takes place in a wax melter (you can buy one for around €100, but an old rice cooker will also work). The wax granules are melted at around 90 degrees Celsius. The chain is completely immersed in the wax and moved around for several minutes so the hot wax can penetrate every link. Let it work for about 15 minutes.

After removal, the wax hardens quickly – the chain then looks almost varnished, is stiff, and must be broken and reattached to the bike. However, after a few kilometers of riding, it becomes smooth and runs almost silently.

Whether waxing makes sense for you depends largely on your intended use and your priorities. Those who regularly ride long distances, participate in ultra-marathon events, or simply enjoy a perfectly maintained bike will be rewarded with wax. Its advantages are particularly evident in dry conditions on asphalt or gravel. Frequent riders who cover high mileage also benefit economically – because less wear and tear also means fewer replacement parts.

However, this process is less suitable for everyday cyclists who ride in all weather conditions, or for riders who want to spend as little time as possible on maintenance. Even on wet winter roads, traditional oil with high adhesion can be simpler and more robust – but it does require more cleaning.

I admit: The effort was not easy. It took time, planning, and a bit of experimentation. But the result was convincing – both technically and emotionally. The waxed chain ran quietly, cleanly, and smoothly – and most importantly, for hundreds of kilometers without relubrication. While others were busy with oily fingers during their refreshment breaks, I was able to concentrate on what mattered most: riding.

For me, it was an introduction to a new world of bike care, with a clear tendency to repeat. And if you're unsure, I recommend just giving it a try. Prepare two chains—one waxed, one oiled—and swap them as needed. Ultimately, the experience on the bike is what counts. And if it makes it quieter, cleaner, and more efficient, all the better.

In this sense: out with friction, in with performance.

Yours, Ulrich Bartholmös