Italy's fascinating Amalfi Coast: hilltop villages, azure beaches, vineyards, olive and lemon groves

Few postcards in the world bring together the magic, beauty and personality of Italy 's Amalfi Coast .

On the Tyrrhenian Sea , it is a corniche route that surprises at every turn of the Gulf of Salerno: steep cliffs, secret bays and hanging terraces where vines, olive trees and lemon trees grow.

With warm summers and mild winters, it is traveled along Highway 163 , a 40-kilometer stretch along the Mediterranean coast.

From Positano in the west to Vietri sul Mare in the east, there are 13 municipalities in this stretch of the Campania region , which was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1997.

Located south of Pompeii and east of the Sorrento Peninsula, many travelers discover these towns after visiting larger tourist destinations, such as Naples.

Specifically, from Naples you can reach Sorrento or Salerno by train and then travel by car, bus or ferry .

The advantage of ferries is their speed and the panoramic views from the sea offer connections to Positano, Amalfi, and other coastal towns.

The history of the Amalfi Coast dates back to the Roman Empire, although its inhabitants decided to ally themselves with the Byzantines during the Greco-Gothic War because they were granted greater autonomy.

The Maritime Republic of Amalfi was the oldest of the four maritime republics and, in the 10th century, became a duchy. Between the late 10th and early 11th centuries, the Amalfi Duchy experienced its greatest expansion, until it was conquered by the Normans in 1136 and the coast fell into disrepair.

But Amalfi became the capital of the eponymous district of the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies, to be annexed to the Kingdom of Italy in 1861.

Fascinating, the Amalfi Coast boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in the Tyrrhenian Sea and the world, although they are not extensive and the ground is usually stony, with small pebbles.

Without a doubt, the most famous and visited towns are Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello, but those who rent a car and want to explore the area in more detail can also visit places like Praiano, Furore, Conca dei Marini, Atrani, Minori, Maiori, Cetara, and Vietri sur Mare.

Here's a tour of these hypnotic places.

It is pure Mediterranean, west of the fascinating natural balcony: a vertical village hanging from the mountain that falls to the sea in terraces of white houses, flowery alleys, boutiques, cafes, restaurants and endless staircases .

On its 400-meter-long Marina Grande beach , lined with colorful umbrellas, it's not uncommon to bump into celebrities, but the real luxury lies in getting lost in its nooks and crannies. A stroll is all it takes to discover linen clothing, hand-painted ceramics, jewelry, souvenirs, lemon soaps, and watercolors.

Beneath the church of Santa Maria Assunta, with its yellow, green, and blue majolica dome, lies a 1st-century Roman villa submerged by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius: Roman patricians built extraordinary holiday homes in Positano, attracted by the scenery and the good climate.

From the pier, small boats depart for Li Galli, three legendary islets surrounded by crystal-clear waters. Another gem is Fornillo Beach, which can be reached on foot and is perfect for snorkeling.

For memorable views, the Sentiero degli Dei (Way of the Gods) winds through the Lattari Mountains with panoramic views that reach as far as Capri. For many years, it was the only link between the towns and villages of the Amalfi Coast, until the construction of National Route 163.

Between Amalfi and Positano, there are a handful of towns worth visiting, although travelers typically stay and base themselves in Amalfi, Positano, and Ravello.

One of them is Praiano , a peaceful retreat with clear waters, narrow streets, small staircases, and colorful houses. The former summer residence of the Doges, this fishing village dazzles with its majolica shrines and altars, its belvederes, and its beaches, such as the beautiful Marina di Praia.

Furore is nestled in a hidden fjord where a cleft between the cliffs reveals the sea as far as a beach at least 25 meters deep. From the bridge that crosses it, you can hear the waves that gave rise to Furore, considered one of the "most beautiful villages in Italy."

A film set and rock-jumping adventure, cinema and nature intertwine here.

Nearby, Conca dei Marini is a village of sea and legends, combining white houses perched on cliffs with orchards of olive and lemon trees. It is said that centuries ago, the janare, ritual experts, met in the olive grove by the Church of San Pancrazio.

It's history, sea, and legend. According to myth, Hercules founded the city in honor of his beloved; according to history, it emerged after a storm drove Roman families to this corner of the coast. It would later become a maritime republic, a pioneer of trade with the East and the birthplace of the "Amalfi Tablet," one of the first codes of maritime law.

Amalfi was a flourishing maritime republic from the 9th to the 11th century, based on trade across the Tyrrhenian Sea with eastern markets. That past still resonates in its souk-like layout, characterized by a labyrinth of steep alleys, scented with lemon and salt, and staircases between tightly packed houses that climb the mountain.

Today, the city displays its past in the old arsenals, in the Paper Museum of the Valle dei Molini, and, above all, in its imposing Cathedral of San Andreas, located in the center and crowning the Piazza del Duomo with its neo-Moorish façade and monumental staircase.

Marina Grande Beach is the most accessible and family-friendly, and is characterized by its sand and pebbles, with bars and restaurants.

Just a stone's throw from Amalfi, Atrani is a miniature ancient world. It's the smallest municipality in Italy by area and retains the spirit of an authentic southern fishing village.

A handful of houses climb up the hill from the beach, sheltered by mountains and open to the blue Tyrrhenian Sea.

Of Roman origin, the Etruscans, Greeks, Normans, and Spaniards all passed through here. Today, among narrow streets, courtyards, and arched walkways, you can breathe a peace untouched by traffic and noise. Its heart is the Piazza Umberto I, a former dock where you can now enjoy coffee overlooking the sea.

Nearby, the neoclassical church of San Salvatore de' Bireto recalls the time when the investiture of the Doges of the Maritime Republic of Amalfi took place there.

Hidden churches, staircases with views, and taverns under stone arches: in Atrani, everything seems frozen in time, with cliffs enclosing a small beach and a calm sea somewhere between green and blue.

Perched more than 350 meters above sea level, Ravello is one of the most charming towns on the Amalfi Coast . From its terraces, views of the Gulf of Salerno unfold and the air is scented with Mediterranean maquis.

With its blend of Arabic, Sicilian and Norman styles, Villa Rufolo dazzles with its halls, towers and flowery gardens.

The Villa Cimbrone belvedere is known as the "terrace of infinity," an elegant balcony decorated with 18th-century marble busts. The villa is an exclusive five-star hotel, but the gardens are open to the public, with paths winding through statues and wisteria.

Ravello's historic center brings together narrow streets, the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta and San Pantaleone, and artisan ceramic workshops.

Although at a high altitude, Ravello also has access to the sea: in the village of Castiglione there is a beach that can be reached by sea or by land by descending about 200 steps.

More intimate than its neighbor Maiori, Minori combines history, landscape, and flavor. Its coastal promenade leads to the Basilica of Santa Trofimena and the 1st-century Roman Villa, with well-preserved paintings and frescoes.

Between lemon groves and panoramic views of the sea, the Lemon Trail connects Maiori and other towns. And the local pastry shops confirm why this corner is called the City of Taste.

Maiori , on the other hand, is known for having the longest beach on the Amalfi Coast and for its Saracen towers, such as the Norman Tower and La Cerniola, ancient defensive structures. In addition to coves like Salicerchie (reached by descending 160 steps), the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria a Mare, Santa Maria delle Grazie, and the Abbey of Santa Maria dell' Olearia reflect local traditions.

It preserves the authentic essence of a fishing village , with its port, pastel-colored houses, Marina beach and the Vicereale Tower .

Corso Garibaldi , the main street, has historic churches, local ceramics and typical products.

Cetara is also a strategic point for hiking of varying intensity at different altitudes, such as the trail through olive groves, vineyards, and terraced lemon trees that leads to Punta Fuenti.

Colatura di Alici, an ancient anchovy sauce, is the culinary jewel of the place and the result of an artisanal process inherited from the Romans and perfected by Cistercian monks.

They say in Campania that it's the first pearl of the Amalfi Coast, being the first stop east for those coming from Salerno.

Blue and yellow will be etched in the eyes of travelers: they are the colors of the majolica tiles that adorn the dome of the Cathedral of San Juan Bautista, at the highest point in the historic center.

And it speaks of a ceramic tradition that began in the Renaissance and lives on in workshops, shops, and museums. The "Vietri yellow" stands out alongside the emery green donkey figurines, a reminder of the area's ancient means of transportation.

The Marina di Vietri offers fine sandy beaches and shallow waters , while Crestarella completes the coastal landscape.