Haute Couture: The Magnificent Margiela

Martin Margiela is arguably the designer most cited by the generation of artistic directors currently in power. Demna (who is currently leaving Balenciaga to join Gucci) and Matthieu Blazy, appointed at Chanel , worked at his house after his departure. Jonathan Anderson at Dior cites him as one of his greatest influences. Nadège Vanhée of Hermès began her career alongside him, and today inherits his job at the saddler when he was its designer between 1997 and 2003. The man, who retired from the fashion scene after selling his brand to Renzo Rosso's OTB group, created in 1989, alongside his ready-to-wear collections, an "artisanal" line based on reclaimed clothing and second-hand objects, reworked exclusively by hand.

In 2012, this line allowed the house to enter the very exclusive circle of haute couture. From 2011 to 2014, Matthieu Blazy was the "anonymous" artistic director, his jewel-encrusted masks worn...