In Iran, women sing Khayyam, an agnostic Persian poet
In Bushehr, a port city in southern Iran, women recite and sing quatrains by Omar Khayyam in cafes and on the streets. He was already known in the 11th century for his opposition to religious dogmatism. They are thus defying the power of the mullahs, who forbid them from singing in public. They are also reviving a culture and philosophy that are the opposite of those imposed by the Islamic Republic.
[This article can be found in our special issue Women, the fight continues, on sale since May 28 at your newsagent and on our website .]
A young woman sings in a warm voice accompanied by the sound of bagpipes. Around her, other women in colorful traditional clothing clap their hands. The singer breathes deeply, then releases her voice by swinging her neck in time with her hands: “O Khayyam, if you have drunk too much, if you are drunk, be happy. If the idol you prefer sits near you, be happy. And since nothingness is the whole of the world, imagine that you are no more. And since you are, be happy.”
The rhythm of the hands quickens. Faces smile. In the middle, a young woman guides the others and shows them how to clap. Hookahs, small braziers of harmala (a local plant), and thin cups of tea circulate among the crowd. Soon, joy fills the hearts of all the spectators.
This type of local music is unique to Bushehr, a city of nearly 230,000 people in southwestern Iran. An old ritual, Khayyam Khani (“Reading Khayyam”), whose performance has undergone a slight adaptation, has now become one of the main attractions.
Courrier International
