Escapades: the Ardèche by bike

Around Valence, 1 hour 30 minutes from Lyon, the Ardèche Blue Route is undoubtedly the gentlest route for beginners. Its 12 kilometers run along the right bank of the Rhône between Soyons and Châteaubourg, on an easy dirt track with pleasant forest sections. An ideal option for younger riders to get their first taste of cycling, or as a continuation of the ViaRhôna.

Directions on valence-romans-tourisme.com

A little further south, the Payre gentle cycle route runs for 20 kilometers of paved road between Le Pouzin and Privas, the charming capital of Ardèche. This pleasant cycle ride along the Payre, a small tributary of the Rhône, follows the route of an old railway line through tunnels, viaducts, and bridges, through remarkable rocky gorges. It also provides access to the ViaRhôna.

Directions on sud-ardeche-tourisme.com

La Dolce Via, as its name suggests, is all about pleasure and relaxation. This beautiful 90-kilometer route, built and secured on the region's former railway line, connects La Voulte-sur-Rhône to Saint-Agrève and Le Cheylard to Lamastre.

With your family, enjoy the serenity that emanates from the Ardèche landscapes, along the viaducts, tunnels, bridges and bends of the Eyrieux.

Along the way, don't forget to take a refreshing break in the shade of the old stones characteristic of the characterful villages that line the route.

Take the time to lose yourself in the medieval streets of Beauchastel, to admire the splendid panorama of Chalencon or to make a short visit to the Château de Désaignes, built in the 14th century, and its museum.

Directions at www.dolce-via.com

Longer, the Via Ardèche is a flat 70-kilometer route built on old railway lines between Aubenas and the gateway to the Gard at Saint-Paul-le-Jeune.

Typical Ardèche villages, with undeniable charm, mark the route, such as Ruoms, Jaujac, Vogüé, and Balazuc. The last two, separated by eight pleasant kilometers of an old railway line, are definitely worth a stop.

Admire the charming Vogüé and its stone houses clinging to the cliffs, on the banks of the Ardèche. An impressive viaduct spans the river and its pretty beaches. The ideal spot for canoeing enthusiasts, since this is where the descent of the Ardèche Gorges begins!

A little further on, in Balazuc, take the time to admire the flowery alleys with uneven cobblestones, the vaulted passages, the small squares lined with fig trees, the Romanesque church and the 12th century keep.

About a twenty-minute walk away is the hamlet of Viel Audon, a collection of ruins that an association brought back to life in the 1970s to experiment with a different mode of production and consumption. A shop sells, among other things, the delicious goat cheeses produced on site. A real treat!

Directions on via-ardeche.fr

The Via Fluvia is an unmissable cycle route that connects two rivers: the Loire and the Rhône. Nearly 100 kilometers of trail await you between Lavoûte-sur-Loire, in Haute-Loire, and Annonay, in Ardèche.

The Via Fluvia can be explored in sections or as a route: traced on old railway lines, it allows you to cross several departments and easily connect to other major routes.

To extend the pleasure, a 236-kilometer loop with a 2,900-meter elevation gain allows you to discover the Dolce Via and the ViaRhôna. While waiting for the junction to be completed, it is possible to join the ViaRhôna from Annonay or from Midon station in Vernosc-lès-Annonay. In both cases, you will have to take care to reach Sarras via a departmental road, then cross the bridge to reach Saint-Vallier.

Allow approximately twenty additional kilometers from Annonay and ten from Midon train station. Take your time: along the way, many lodges offer a welcome designed for cyclists.

Directions at https://www.viafluvia.fr/

Go to the beach... by bike. Why not? From the village of Saint-Gingolph, on the shores of beautiful Lake Geneva, the ViaRhôna takes you to the Mediterranean Sea.

A legendary cycle route of over 800 kilometers, to be discovered in sections to prolong the pleasure. A short week through the Drôme and Ardèche or on the route of UNESCO-listed monuments, a long weekend in Lyon or on the foothills of the Vercors…

The atmospheres are varied. Depending on your level and your desire for detours, you'll need about ten days to explore the entire ViaRhôna. Numerous services (accommodation, restaurants, water points, etc.) mark the route, served by 36 train stations for a smooth return to your starting point.

In Lyon, the ViaRhôna follows the left bank of the river, where you can see the opera house, the town hall, and the Hôtel-Dieu, along the banks of the Rhône and its barges, to the recent Confluence district and its elegant museum with its quality exhibitions. After crossing the capital of the Gauls, the route continues due south, towards Givors. For this very busy section, it is strongly recommended to take the train at least from Lyon to Givors, then continue by bike to Saint-Romain-en-Gal.

Directions at https://www.viarhona.com/

^{The historic center of Annonay © Le Caillou aux hiboux}

It's not just the people of Lyon who like to add a touch of pink to their daily lives... For a little break with the colors of northern Ardèche, slip a few Annonay puppets into your bag.

This pretty pink shortbread is carefully cut into the shape of a person, animal, or hot air balloon, symbolizing the city where it originates. Traditionally made for Palm Sunday, it can now be found throughout the year.

Despite its 150 years of existence, no one has managed to crack the secret of making this daring pastry, jealously guarded in a few Ardèche establishments, including the Olagnon pastry shop in Annonay. No matter, its tender heart and delicate orange blossom flavor are well worth a few kilometers of cycling!

In Le Cheylard, just over two hours' drive from Lyon, the Val'Eyrieux Monts d'Ardèche mountain bike area, certified by the French Cycling Federation, offers 43 marked mountain bike trails between mountains and valleys, with varying levels of difficulty. For the more adventurous, there's a 126-kilometer Tour de Pays with 3,793 meters of elevation gain, exploring the secret valleys of the Ardèche, its golden ridges, hamlets, and exceptional panoramas. Try it over a long weekend for a complete change of scenery, far from the gray atmosphere of big cities. The suggested route is divided into four stages, adaptable according to your level.

More information on rando.ardeche-hautes-vallees.fr

Reserved for experienced cyclists, the Grande Traversée de l'Ardèche is one of those dream routes. A mountain bike journey of over 315 kilometers, complete in about a week, which crosses the Ardèche from north to south, from Annonay to Bourg-Saint-Andéol.

Several departure points are available, from Annonay, Tournon-sur-Rhône, or even Saint-Félicien, to reach Saint-Agrève via Devesset and its superb lake. A refreshing 50-kilometer alternative, highly appreciated in the depths of summer!

More than just a cycling route, this is an unforgettable adventure in the heart of the wide open spaces of Ardèche. Wild and unspoiled landscapes, well worth the effort! The Grande Traversée de l'Ardèche is an intense physical challenge, with demanding climbs and technical descents.

More information on sitesvtt.ffc.fr

The Ardéchoise is an equally demanding race, if not more so, which takes place this summer from June 10 to 14, starting from Saint-Félicien, a small village in the north of Ardèche, located 1 hour 30 minutes from Lyon.

Since its inception in 1990, the race has become a highlight for cycling enthusiasts. As proof, it attracts nearly 15,000 cyclists each year!

Over time, the race has diversified to accommodate an increasingly wide audience. There are several options, from one to four days of cycling, and several courses of varying difficulty. This includes a gentle 87-kilometer version for beginner cycle tourists and even a course for electric bikes. Events are dedicated to budding riders, children, and teenagers up to 17 years old.

Beyond the sporting feat, the Ardéchoise brings summer to the surrounding villages, with numerous events and festivities organized alongside the race. A cycle fair brings together several exhibitors in Saint-Félicien, where you can find bargains or test out the latest products.

The rest of the year, 13 marked cycling loops marked "On the Ardéchoise Routes" cross the region from north to south. That's 620 kilometers of fun, while we await the return of the legendary race!

Registration and route on ardechoise.com

Annonay is the birthplace of the hot air balloon. The Montgolfier brothers, the creators of this amazing invention, grew up just nearby in Vidalon. Inspired, no doubt, by the Ardèche landscape, magnificent when viewed from the sky.

On June 4, 1783, the first balloon took off from the Place des Cordeliers, in the heart of Annonay. This historic flight is recreated each year by the “Les Montgolfières d'Annonay” association, in the same location, in period conditions and costumes.

Please note that the date chosen for 2025 is June 1st. Throughout the summer, hot air balloons punctuate local life in Ardèche with several highlights dedicated to them: an international gathering of enthusiasts in Annonay, a festival in Quintenas and Annonay, etc. Perhaps the opportunity to try a little balloon ride?

More information on ardechegrandair.com

Where to stay?

• Domaine Saint Cerice (unusual caravans and cabins) in Vogüé – saintcerice.com

• La Bergerie de l'Aulagner (bed and breakfast on the Dolce Via, bicycle friendly) – bergerie-aulagner.fr

Where to eat?

• Le Lieu (bistronomic restaurant) in Annonay – lelieulerestaurant.fr

• La Fenière (traditional cuisine) in Balazuc – restaurant-la-feniere.com

Not to be missed

• From July 11 to 13: music festival at the Château de la Rivoire, in Vanosc

• August 30 and 31: 24h VTT de l’Ardèche (endurance mountain bike event solo or in a team) starting from La Voulte-sur-Rhône

How to get there?

• By car: 2 to 3 hours by motorway

• By train: TER Lyon-Valence (1 hour 30) / Lyon-Annonay (1 hour 30) / Lyon-Saint-Étienne (45 minutes) then regional buses