From Dries Van Noten to Rick Owens, a widespread need for kindness

Paris Fashion Week continues under the banner of a shared purpose: to dismantle all hardness, rediscovering the aesthetic and political value of fragility.

IM Men

The IM Men team continues to expand on one of the founding principles of Miyake designs: the challenge of making each piece from a single piece of fabric. What may appear to the uninitiated as a mere technicality actually produces clothes with beautifully fluid lines, whose geometric forms reconfigure and redefine with every movement of the body, creating an ever-evolving dialogue with the wearer. This season, the ideal conversation with the work of ceramist Shoji Kamoda translates into an organic palette and guttural rhythmic patterns. The collection is lyrical and abstract, concrete and radical, and powerfully updates Issey's language, highlighting its ancestral futurism.

Dries Van Noten

Julian Klausner continues to convince as the creative heir of Dries Van Noten . He moves within the same channel, but has his own sensitivity, harder at times, less eclectic certainly, more inclined to explore a subtle ambiguity. He imagines a man in love, walking on the beach the day after the party, mixing tuxedo and sarong, thick embroidery and pajama stripes, underwear on display and battered formality. He is a distracted and kind character, oblivious to what is to be considered masculine or feminine, who well captures the widespread need for kindness.

Mike Amiri, aka simply Amiri , is the Los Angeles herald of bold but soft tailoring, all cosmetic colors, self-satisfied embroidery, wide lapels and bell-bottoms. The strain of this fashion is nostalgic, but the execution has a very modern, commendable relaxation.

Yohij Yamamoto

Yohji Yamamoto deconstructs and fluidifies as only he knows how, always and with unfading verve, faithful to himself without rigidity and orthodoxy. Everything is light, black spreads broken by white, seditious slogans run along jackets and vaporous shirts and poetry becomes punk, without vitriol but with a lot of lightness.