Jordi Jacas and the joy of a bouillabaisse

Beneath the stoves where they cook grilled fish or slow-cooked stews at the Molí de l'Escala (Camí Vell de les Corts s/n), circulates the groundwater that fed an old flour mill, which was once a rice mill. Apparently, it was part of an industrial plan that, had it materialized, would have involved several neighboring mills, each with a specific use. It is said that on a trip to Paris, the Marquis of Dou, a lawyer and engineer who, along with his wife, owned what is now this restaurant and hotel, was fascinated by the machinery of a power plant and wanted to bring the invention home. The result was 130 years ago: as if by magic, the nights of l'Escala were illuminated, the first municipality in the country with electric lighting.

These stories are woven by chef Jordi Jacas, who knows he's fortunate to work in such a unique place. He's dug out documents to explore the life that existed there long before his father, a wise and friendly man, bought the spectacular house, where his little daughter Aina happily runs around, thrilled to help her grandfather in the garden. Electricity, the chef explains, gave life to the village. But since it never rains to everyone's liking, "someone was electrocuted while changing a light bulb, and some people claimed it was pure witchcraft."

Rock fish, scaly fish, flat fish, and sand fish are essential for the Marseille dish.

Jacas prepares successful banquets that used to be held at the Molí de l'Escala; now he prefers to serve them outside, to preserve the restaurant's vibrant atmosphere, which celebrated its thirtieth anniversary last year in excellent health. The menu preserves classics that stand the test of time, such as the Empordà duck magret carpaccio with foie gras, olives, and truffle. There's a crucial moment at the Molí table: the homage to L'Escala through its star product, anchovies , which Jacas prepares in various ways, and, of course, also as is, very little (very little!) desalted, just the way he likes it.

Years ago, this chef set out to prepare the best bouillabaisse he could muster. And, certainly, you have to take a trip to try it. Next to the name of the dish, in case anyone doesn't know it, there's the phrase "our escudella del mar" (our sea stew) and an explanation of the two steps involved in serving it: first, the broth with toasted bread and rouille (a Provençal sauce derived from mayonnaise, to which paprika and saffron give a rusty hue), and second, wild fish from the fish markets of Llançà, Port de la Selva, and Roses. Essential for bouillabaisse, the chef points out, are rock fish (scorpionfish, redfish, sea bream, or spider fish), scale fish (bass, sea bream, etc.), and flat-bottomed sand fish, such as turbot or sole.

The Mill of l'Escala ADDRESS Camí Vell a les Corts, S/N, 17130, Girona

972 77 47 27

https://molidelescala.com/

On the menu, you'll find rice dishes, various starters, fish of the day, and meats (from lamb shoulder to aged beef txuleton). But nothing compares to the joy of rediscovering one of those dishes that aren't common in restaurants, let alone one prepared with such delicacy, such as Jacas bouillabaisse. This dish originated in humble beginnings, for which Marseille fishermen used rock varieties they couldn't sell. The restaurant Les Trois Frères Provençaux, founded in 1786 by three brothers from Marseille, helped refine it for the palates of the Parisian bourgeoisie. The dish grew in popularity, becoming one of the emblems of French cuisine. Jacas bouillabaisse, which has even led to marathons in Marseille restaurants, is elegant and flavorful. And that broth, which remains on the table in a small jug to be poured over the fish during the second course, is holy water.