How Glycolic Acid Quietly Became Beauty’s Most Powerful Multi-Tasker

Glycolic acid is like the superfruit of the beauty world. Derived from sugarcane, this all-star ingredient is one of the most effective—yet surprisingly gentle—exfoliants on the market, and it can be used from head to toe.

“It has the smallest molecular size of all alpha hydroxy acids (or AHAs), which means it can travel deep into the skin,” board-certified dermatologist Mona A. Gohara, MD, tells ELLE. “Think of it as a microscopic broom sweeping away dead skin cells to reveal fresher, more radiant skin underneath.”

Essentially, glycolic acid dissolves the glue-like substance that binds dead skin cells together. “Once that barrier is broken, those cells shed more easily, paving the way for new, healthy skin,” Gohara adds. Research shows the ingredient may also help stimulate collagen production, which can soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

So, how do you make the most of this multitasking acid? Gohara and other dermatologists break down its ideal uses for different parts of the body—plus the glycolic acid-infused products they personally recommend.

What is glycolic acid?

Glycolic acid is a hydrating chemical exfoliant that can help treat concerns like acne, rosacea, melasma, and hyperpigmentation, explains double board-certified dermatologist Karan Lal, DO. It’s suitable for the face, body, and even the scalp and hair.

For the face

Glycolic acid is often found in face washes, scrubs, toners, and moisturizers, as well as targeted spot treatments. “It smooths rough texture, softens fine lines, fades hyperpigmentation, and helps prevent breakouts,” notes Gohara.

For the body

TikTokers have been touting glycolic acid as a surprising alternative to traditional deodorant—and according to both Lal and Gohara, there’s real science behind the trend. “You can use it under your arms to reduce odor and fade dark patches from shaving or irritation,” says Gohara. Thanks to its antimicrobial properties, the ingredient is also found in many whole-body deodorants, Lal adds. While it may not offer the same level of odor protection as conventional options, it’s a great choice for those seeking a more natural alternative.

Beyond odor control, the gentle exfoliant can also help smooth rough patches and keratosis pilaris (aka chicken skin).

For the scalp and hair

A glycolic acid pre-shampoo or scalp scrub can help dissolve product buildup and flakes, while also working to balance oil production. Some hair treatments, like conditioning masks and glosses, also include the ingredient, as it can penetrate the hair shaft to temporarily boost moisture and shine.

Is glycolic acid safe for all skin types?

Generally speaking, yes—though it depends on the percentage of glycolic acid you’re using. Lal says most over-the-counter products contain less than 15 percent, which is considered safe for at-home use. However, he suggests starting with a lower concentration between five and seven percent for daily application. “In concentrations under 10 percent, it’s an ingredient that can even be used during pregnancy,” Lal adds.

Concentrations of 15 percent or higher move into chemical peel territory, all of which our experts strongly advise against. “Anything over 10 percent used as a leave-on product can be associated with increased risk of redness, burns, hyperpigmentation, and exacerbation of skin disease,” Lal explains.

The bottom line: Proceed with caution. It’s a good idea to consult your dermatologist first, especially if you’re using prescription-strength topicals or plan to apply the ingredient in more sensitive areas like the underarms or groin. Even if your skin isn’t reactive, always do a patch test to see how it responds.

Are there any ingredients that shouldn’t be used with glycolic acid?

To minimize irritation, avoid layering glycolic acid with other strong actives like retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, tretinoin, or pure vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid). “Think of glycolic acid as the main event—not part of a crowded cast,” says Gohara.

Meet the Experts

• Mona A. Gohara, MD, is a board-certified dermatologist and associate clinical professor at the Department of Dermatology, Yale School of Medicine
• Karan Lal, DO, FAAD, is a double-board-certified pediatric and cosmetic dermatologist

Why Trust ELLE Beauty?

As a leading publisher of fashion, lifestyle, and beauty content, ELLE.com is committed to highlighting the best products in various categories by personally testing the latest and most innovative products, interviewing countless experts, and vetting customer-loved items. For this piece, beauty commerce editor Nerisha Penrose consulted a dermatologist to learn about glycolic acid and the best products containing the ingredient.

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