Iconic Hermes handbag to go up for auction, experts expect record

A true legend will appear on the auction market – the first-ever Hermès Birkin bag, designed in 1984 especially for Jane Birkin, will go under the hammer at Sotheby's in Paris.

Already in July 2025, a true luxury jewel will go under the hammer at the Paris branch of the Sotheby's auction house - the first-ever Hermès Birkin bag, or more precisely, a prototype created especially for Jane Birkin in 1984. A unique piece, which is also the beginning of one of the most desirable handbag lines in the world, could set new price records on the luxury accessories market.

Birking Bag - The prototype of the iconic bag will go up for auction in July / Sotheby’s

The history of the iconic bag dates back to a plane flight, during which Jane Birkin , a British actress and singer, met Jean-Louis Dumas, then CEO of Hermès . During their conversation, she mentioned that she missed a bag that was both elegant and practical. Dumas grabbed a paper bag and together they sketched an idea that revolutionized the luxury accessories market. Birkin was born – a symbol of style, status and excellent craftsmanship.

Original Birkin bag to be auctioned / Sotheby’s

Today, there are legends surrounding the Birkin bag , including:

• Buying a Birkin involves a years-long wait on a “waiting list”,
• In order to purchase a Birkin, you must first build a proper relationship with Hermès boutiques,
• Hermès doesn’t sell Birkins to just anyone — the brand allegedly selects customers based on unclear criteria.

Jane Birkin's Hermes handbag to be auctioned off / Getty Images

The bag up for auction is an original prototype of the Birkin model, made of black leather, distinguished by elements that did not make it into mass production. Among the unique details are: gold-plated brass fittings, a shoulder strap that allows the bag to be worn crossbody, and a flap embossed with the initials "JB" - a subtle but significant signature of its owner.

In terms of proportions, the model combines the features of two iconic versions - it is tall like the Birkin 40 , but deep and wide like the Birkin 35 .

Jane Birkin bag on display at the V&A Museum in London / Getty Images

In 1994, Jane Birkin donated the prototype to the Association Solidarité Sida, a French organization fighting AIDS. Six years later, the bag was acquired by Catherine Benier, a Parisian collector and owner of a vintage boutique. The original Birkin was exhibited in museums, including the Victoria & Albert Museum in London, before being included on Sotheby's world tour, which included Paris, Hong Kong and New York.

The original Birkin is one of them. Paired with icons like Princess Diana's sweater or Freddie Mercury's crown, it has the potential to set a new auction record — not only because of its material value, but also its extraordinary cultural heritage. We'll find out on July 10, 2025.