This French town from the book "Perfume" really exists. A must-see for those who love perfumes
Before the picturesque hilltop town in the heart of Provence began to smell of roses and jasmine, a completely different scent hung over it – a much less pleasant one.
Since the 12th century, Grasse has been famous for its excellent leather goods, valued on European markets for their durability and careful workmanship. Unfortunately, they had one significant flaw: an intense, repulsive smell. It was the result of the tanning techniques of the time, based on the use of excrement , both animal and human.
It is from this inglorious smell that the history of Grasse as the capital of perfume begins . The aristocracy, exceptionally sensitive to smells, avoided gloves made of leather prepared in this way. Then a local tanner named Galimard came up with a brilliant idea - he began to immerse his products in fragrant baths of rose water and spices , inspired by the so-called oriental method, brought to Europe by the Saracens and Moors from North Africa.
His experiment almost went unnoticed – instead, it opened a new chapter in the city's history. Grasse gradually transformed from a tanning center into the world capital of perfumes.
Grasse - the world capital of perfume / ShutterstockGalimard decided to give Catherine de Medici – the queen of France from 1547 to 1559 – a pair of scented gloves. The gift made such an impression on her that from then on tanners began to scent their products using the enfleurage method, based on the transfer of scents through fats.
Gloves with the scent of roses and spices quickly gained recognition at the royal court and among the aristocracy, and Grasse took a new direction – perfumery – quickly overtaking the previous leader in this field, Montpellier, known for the production of scented ointments and cosmetics.
In the 17th century , perfume production became the main occupation of the city's inhabitants. This was the result of the gradual decline of tanning, which could not cope with increasing taxes and competition. Fortunately, the area was conducive to the new craft - the sunny climate, appropriate humidity and geographical location created ideal conditions for growing fragrant plants such as bitter orange, lavender, pistachio, myrtle and cassia.
Lavender fields in France / ShutterstockFarmers distilled their own crops and sold the extracted essences, which allowed them to supplement their basic income. Over time, new species imported from abroad began to appear in the region – in this way , jasmine, rose and tuberose from Italy and India, among others, came to Grasse, and the city quickly gained the reputation of the world capital of perfumes.
After the industrial revolution, the town entered a period of intensive development, reaching the peak of its fame in the early 20th century. Although over time the market began to rely mainly on synthetic aromas offered by global corporations, the town was able to find its way in the new reality – it focused on protecting heritage and cultivating craft traditions.
Although the production of natural essences has been limited, perfumery remains the heart of the local economy and an integral part of the region's identity.
Grasse - the world capital of perfume / ShutterstockGrasse has gained worldwide fame for developing the true art of creating fragrances. It was here that the legendary meeting of Ernest Beaux and Gabrielle Chanel took place, resulting in the iconic perfume with distinct notes of jasmine and rose from Grasse. This is just one of many examples of the city's long-standing creative centre for world perfumery.
The prestigious Grasse Institute of Perfumery and the Ecole Supérieure du Parfum, which educates future fragrance creators, operate here. It is estimated that more than a third of perfumers – the so-called “noses” – have ties to this place: they were born here, studied here, or practiced here.
Médiathèque Charles Nègre - Grasse / Unsplash - Antoine GravierIn the charming town of Cabris near Grasse, Edmond Roudnitska founded the Art et Parfum studio in 1946 – a workshop that still attracts perfumers from all over the world.
Grasse was where René Coty and Olivia Giacobetti studied, and the Les Fontaines Parfumées estate is still where Louis Vuitton fragrances are created , by Jacques Cavallier Belletrud. Grasse is also home to Jean-Claude Ellena, who worked for Hermès for years, and François Demachy, who is associated with Dior.
Although a hundred years ago thousands of tons of flowers were processed here every year, today much fewer are obtained – mainly jasmine, rose, tuberose, violet leaves and mimosa.
Despite the decline in production, perfumes remain the backbone of the local economy. At the beginning of the 21st century, some 3,500 people worked in almost sixty companies in the industry, and a total of 10,000 residents – more than a fifth of Grasse’s population – derived income from it, directly or indirectly. Today, the city is home to global giants such as dsm-Firmenich and IFF-LMR, as well as smaller manufacturers and historic perfume houses such as Molinard, Galimard and Fragonard.
Alongside them, independent artists also find their place, combining local ingredients with passion and respect for tradition. Although the scale of production has changed, Grasse remains a place where fragrances with soul are created.
Grasse - the world capital of perfumes / Unsplash - Artem RpkdaZwhIweoThe city is located about 20 km north of Cannes and although it has only 50 thousand inhabitants, it consists of a surprising number of districts, each with its own mayor's office, school, local customs and unique character. This is no coincidence - this layout originates from the 16th and 17th centuries, when small settlements began to form around the towns. They were usually formed by related families, working for one owner, most often in the cultivation and processing of aromatic plants. This division, resulting from practical needs, has survived to this day, giving Grasse a unique spatial structure.
The city is easily reached by regional train from Cannes (around 25 minutes) or by car – from Nice it’s around an hour’s drive. From the train station to the city centre, it’s a short uphill walk, but you can also catch a city bus. This is a great destination for lovers of scents, history and the Provençal climate – far from the hustle and bustle of the Riviera, but with all its charm within reach. The best time to visit is in spring and early summer – May and June are the time for roses and jasmine to bloom. In August, the city hosts the Fête du Jasmin, a festival of scents, full of flowers, music and colourful parades. In 2018, the local perfume tradition was added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage List.
Grasse - the capital of scents / Shutterstock
Grasse - the world capital of perfume / Shutterstock
Notre-Dame-du-Puy - Grasse / Shutterstock
The fragrant gardens of Grasse / Shutterstock
