Brows Are Back in the Spotlight: Trends and New Techniques with Beauty Expert Nataliia Ilieiko

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Brows remain one of the most essential elements of makeup and overall grooming in today’s beauty industry. Despite the popularity of the “Clean Girl” aesthetic and the “No Makeup” movement, well-shaped brows continue to be a defining beauty feature that can dramatically transform a person’s appearance. Major cosmetic brands confirm this trend — from Glossier to Charlotte Tilbury, they continue to expand their brow product lines, while analysts report that the market for brow styling products is seeing steady growth.

For a professional perspective on today’s brow industry, we spoke with Nataliia Ilieiko — an international expert in brow and lash aesthetics, winner of the prestigious IBA Beauty Awards, judge at the World Beauty Championship, and member of the respected Eurasian Beauty Guild. Nataliia has developed her own innovative brow tinting technique, Soft Gradient Brow Tinting, and regularly hosts masterclasses for industry professionals.

Which classic eyebrow techniques are becoming outdated, what’s currently trending, whether it’s possible to master perfect brow styling on your own, and how judges evaluate work at international beauty competitions — an exclusive interview with the expert.

— Nataliia, as a winner of international IBA Beauty Awards championships, you’ve had the opportunity to see works from top masters worldwide. Based on this experience, tell us, is there currently a unified trend in eyebrow styling, or is everything becoming personalized for each individual?

— Yes, overall, all trends have become much more flexible now, and there’s no longer one universal standard. The main trend is grooming and harmony. There’s an increasing focus on personalization, tailored to face shape, bone structure, skin type, color complexion, and even a person’s character. Speaking of techniques, soft, natural transitions are in demand, creating gradient volume and that “natural but enhanced” feeling. Beautiful doesn’t mean “precise thread-thin brows” or “trendy graphic arches,” but rather what organically fits into a specific woman’s overall look. The emphasis has shifted from pronounced fashion trends toward specific shapes to a deeper task, highlighting a person’s individuality while preserving naturalness and facial harmony.

— Speaking of techniques, what is Soft Gradient Brow Tinting, the new method you are currently developing, and why did you decide to create it?

— This is my major passion project that I’ve been working on for quite some time. Soft Gradient Brow Tinting is a technique that combines aesthetics, delicacy, and technological precision, but behind it lies extensive research work. I studied various tinting methods, pigment characteristics, and color behavior on different skin and hair types to create a universal yet individualized approach. The main feature of this technique is that it allows you to achieve a soft yet long-lasting brow shade without harsh lines or color overload. It uses the principle of creating smooth transitions and a semi-transparent color structure, which makes brows look maximally natural — as if it’s their natural tone — while becoming more expressive. At the same time, Soft Gradient Brow Tinting preserves the client’s individuality: it allows working with any color complexion, considering hair structure, and creating a shade that harmoniously fits into the overall look. It’s important to me that when a master applies this technique, they feel confident and can guarantee the client a beautiful and high-quality result.

— You conducted an brow technique masterclass for the Eurasian Beauty Guild, one of the largest professional beauty associations. If someone new is entering the beauty industry today and wants to learn brow styling, should they start with traditional classic techniques, or is it better to go straight to modern approaches?

— My view is this: you can’t build a house without a foundation. Classic techniques are not just history; they are the anatomical base, understanding the direction of hair growth, the principles of the golden ratio in shaping, and knowledge of color theory. In my practice, I see a clear difference between brow specialists who have studied the fundamentals and those who went straight to trendy techniques. The first group can work with any brow type, adapt to each client, and correct other people’s mistakes. The second group is often limited to one or two techniques and feels lost when faced with non-standard situations. At the same time, the market and clients are constantly changing, and new materials, technologies, and approaches are emerging. That’s why a strong professional is not only someone who knows the classic techniques, but also someone who can rethink them, adapt them to modern trends, and create individual solutions for each client.

— You serve as a judge at the international World Beauty Championship. It seems that evaluating other specialists’ work in such a personalized field as eyebrows must be very challenging. What criteria do judges use when evaluating eyebrow work at international competitions?

— Judging is an enormous responsibility. You’re not just giving scores and choosing winners — you’re influencing masters’ development, their self-confidence, and their desire to grow further. Championships most often use a “before and after” evaluation format through photographs or videos, but in any case, there’s a clear protocol. We evaluate shape, symmetry, tinting quality, work cleanliness, hair styling, alignment of the final result with the specified category, and overall aesthetic appearance. For example, it’s not just the eyebrow shape that matters, but how it harmonizes with the model’s facial proportions and matches the technique declared by the master. As a judge, it’s always important for me to remain as objective and honest as possible. You need to be able to completely abstract from your personal tastes and strictly rely on championship criteria. At the same time, I try to view the work from a supportive and developmental perspective. I believe that judging isn’t just about scores and diplomas, but also about the opportunity to inspire a master, show them their strengths, and give precise recommendations that will help them become more confident and professional.

— Nataliia, you are currently developing your training program for beauty professionals, but what about regular clients? In your opinion, is it possible to learn how to work with brows professionally just for yourself, without going to a specialist?

— It’s always useful to know the basics of brow care for yourself. However, when it comes to professional shaping, long-lasting tinting, and correction, it’s still better to trust a specialist. Even I, as a brow expert, sometimes trust my brows to my colleagues – it’s always easier to see everything from the outside. Though if there is genuine interest and a desire to understand brows on a deeper level, even just for personal use, my program would be an excellent starting point. It will give you an understanding of how different materials work, how to choose the right brow shape, and how to care for your brows properly. And who knows – what starts as a hobby might eventually grow into a career you truly love, just like it did for me!

Presented by: DN NEWS DESK