I visited the ‘most dangerous’ city in Europe and I absolutely loved it

I visited the so-called "most dangerous" city in Europe and was amazed at how beautiful, charming and unforgettable it was, filled with character and an enchanting atmosphere. Some people love it, some people hate it, but there is no doubt in saying that Marseille in the south of France has an unmatched authenticity and character that can be hard to find in big and popular seaside towns. Both gritty and glamorous, busy yet relaxing, this city is like no other right on the Mediteranean sea and boasts a charming old town, warm locals, and coves of crystal-clear waters.

Yet, this city has long been overshadowed by its fame for being unsafe and has the highest crime index of all cities in Europe according to Numbeo and AXA travel insurance company. According to Numbeo, violence and gang activity are among the many issues in the French port city, earning itself a crime rating of 65.9 in 2024 - higher than anywhere else on the continent.

As someone who grew up in the south of France, I’ve long been familiar with Marseille’s reputation - both the good and the bad. The tragic building collapses in 2023 and 2018 highlighted the deeply rooted issues in the city, including official negligence, and the widespread neglect of poorer areas such as Belle de Mai, where around 65% of homes are considered substandard or severely degraded, according to La Drôme Montagne.

But that narrative only tells part of the story and what is also known and spoken about among fellow southerners is the beauty of the area and of the city itself. Marseille is one of the most beautiful and authentic cities I’ve ever experienced and it’s a world away from the polished glamour of Cannes, more raw, more real, and far more affordable yet still incredibly beautiful and magical.

What many overlook is that Marseille is France’s oldest city, founded by the Greeks in 600 BC under the name Massalia, making it more than 2,600 years old - in fact, it's older than Paris by over three centuries.

From the Old Port to the steep alleyways of Le Panier, Marseille bursts with life, colour, and culture where incredible murals line the walls, cobbled streets twist through neighbourhoods steeped in history, and every corner reveals a bar, a local restaurant, or a boulodrome filled with laughter and the sound of pétanque.

The Panier District is a magical neighbourhood and the oldest in the entire city, having managed to preserve its authentic local charm despite an increase in visitors over the years.

What adds to Marseille's charm, though, is the warmth of its people. The locals are known for their good humour and friendly spirit, always ready to share a smile and a story.

Marseille is one of the rare places which has both a big city with an old town, a stunning beautiful cathedral overlooking the sea while also being filled with a vaerity of stunning beaches, and coves with the some of the clearest waters you'll ever find. Unlike many of the more manicured beaches of the Riviera, Marseille’s shores feel wild, raw, and wonderfully unpretentious.

One of the things you must do while in Marseille is take a boat trip to the Calanques, which is a protected national park between Marseille and Cassis and widely known in France for its breathtaking beauty where the sea is so clear and turquoise it almost feels surreal.