Things are getting colorful at Balenciaga: Pierpaolo Piccioli is the new creative director

Former Valentino head designer Pierpaolo Piccioli is taking over the reins at Balenciaga after Demna. Our photo gallery shows why this is a perfect fit.

The designer at the 2021 Met Gala between Whoopi Goldberg and Carey Mulligan. His Valentino gowns were always highly sought after on the red carpet. IMAGO/Pacific Press Agency

Pierpaolo Piccioli will be the new creative director at Balenciaga and will take up his new position on July 10. The fashion brand announced this on Monday evening. With this appointment, Kering CEO François-Henri Pinault is bringing a new hire into the company that could signal a change in direction in design.

While his predecessor Demna shaped the couture maison with a post-Soviet edge, fusing streetwear and high fashion in monstrous cuts, the former Valentino chief designer Pierpaolo Piccioli stands for elegant volume and challenging colors.

Italian-born Piccioli remained loyal to Valentino for more than 25 years, having started as an accessories designer in 1999. After fashion designer and label founder Valentino Garavani stepped down in 2008, Piccioli became part of the creative leadership team at Valentino alongside Maria Grazia Chiuri. When Chiuri moved to Dior in 2016, he remained solely as creative director until leaving Valentino in March 2024. At his final show for the house, he presented an all-black collection, which he called "Valentino Le Noir."

A rare case: The Italian Pierpaolo Piccioli designs women's clothes from a heterosexual perspective.

A rare case: Italian Pierpaolo Piccioli designs women's clothing from a heterosexual perspective. IMAGO/Abacapress

Pierpaolo Piccioli's biggest Valentino hits include the eponymous "PP Pink," which he launched on the runway in 2022, as well as the "Rockstud" shoes with their iconic studs, which he launched with Maria Grazia Chiuri in 2010. These soon found their way onto bags and accessories—and became a Valentino trademark. Piccioli's vibrant couture gowns were also particularly popular on the red carpets of the world.

So how might the designer change Balenciaga? Will we see more colors or rivets? Or will the couturier focus more on black? After all, Cristóbal Balenciaga had a penchant for it, and Demna certainly did.

Pierpaolo Piccioli in the historic couture salon of the House of Balenciaga at 10 Avenue George V in Paris Balenciaga

In his letter accompanying his new position, Piccioli writes: "I'm not a big fan of predestination, but as I scrolled through my personal Instagram page, I saw the very first picture I uploaded, and it's Cristóbal Balenciaga's wedding ensemble from 1967." The new Balenciaga chief designer also thanks his predecessor, writing: "I have always admired his talent and vision. I couldn't have asked for a better handover. He has honored Cristóbal in his own way, bringing his perspective while preserving the identity of the house."

These lines convey a certain intellectual affinity between the two designers. Are there perhaps more parallels between Piccioli's and Demna's work than one might initially think? After a little photo research, it certainly seems so.

1. Couture gowns by Demna and Pierpaolo Picciolo are similarly voluminous

A look from Demna's Balenciaga Haute Couture collection, presented in Paris in July 2022. IMAGO/Abacapress

In January 2024, this couture design by Pierpaolo Picciolo paraded down the Valentino runway.

This couture design by Pierpaolo Picciolo graced the Valentino runway in January 2024. IMAGO/Bestimage

2. Both designers like bright pink

The “Swimdress” by Balenciaga from the Ready-to-wear Winter 2025 collection

The “Swimdress” by Balenciaga from the Ready-to-wear Winter Collection 2025 IMAGO/Avalon.red

A pink dress by Valentino 2022 on the red carpet in Cannes, presented by Katherine Langford IMAGO/Avalon.red

3. Studs on shoes are available from both Balenciaga and Valentino

Demna reinterpreted the studded "Le Cagole" bag for Balenciaga in dresses and shoes. In March 2023, it was seen in Paris, including these ankle boots. IMAGO/Abacapress

A perennial favorite for many years and an iconic Valentino classic to this day, the "Rockstud" shoes, introduced by Pierpaolo Piccoli and Maria Grazia in 2010, were worn by Nicky Hilton at the label's haute couture show in Paris in 2017. IMAGO/Eventpress

4. Cristóbal Balenciaga, Denma, Pierpaolo Piccioli: Everyone loves black

The longer Demna worked for Balenciaga, the more monochrome his designs became. Black played a key role. According to the designer, this preference is rooted in his Georgian heritage. The first collection after the media scandal, shown in Paris in March 2023, was also dark. IMAGO/Capital Pictures

Like Demna, Pierpaolo Piccioli likes to wear black in his private life. The designer explained why he designed his last Valentino collection entirely in black by citing the

Like Demna, Pierpaolo Piccioli likes to wear black in private. The designer explained why he designed his last Valentino collection entirely in black with the "dark times we live in." Perhaps he already knew back then where his journey would lead? IMAGO/Avalon.red

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Things are getting colorful at Balenciaga: Pierpaolo Piccioli is the new creative director

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