The train tunnel that ended up being a hoax but is one of the most spectacular (and coolest) routes in Burgos
The wind blows strongly at the tunnel entrance. It reminds us that we are right on the threshold between Cantabria and Castile and León. Here, between the mists of the Valdeporres Valley and the green humidity of the Pas Valley, lies one of the most ambitious—and failed—railway projects in the history of Spain:the Engaña Tunnel .
Today it's a phantom relic . A colossus uselessly hollowed out by pickaxes and explosives during years of forced labor, but which never saw a single train pass . It has ended up becoming a monument to neglect, to memory... and also to the resilience of nature.
I tell you all about it in detail in this video I recorded right there. In it, I share images, sounds, and sensations firsthand. It's an invitation to explore this fascinating place with respect and curiosity.
The Engaña Tunnel was conceived to form part of the so-called Santander-Mediterranean Railway , a line that aimed to connect the port of Santander with Sagunto, on the Mediterranean, crossing the heart of the peninsula.
Construction began in 1941, in the midst of the postwar period, and continued until 1959. But by the time the tunnel was finished, it was actually too late: the line was never completed. The project was canceled , and with it were buried decades of effort, resources, and many lives marked by the suffering of its construction.
At 6,976 meters long, it was for a long time the longest in Spain and remains an impressive feat of engineering, even though it is now swallowed up by vegetation and ruin.
It has no lighting, no signage, and no maintenance. Only the wind flows freely through it, as if trying to tell the story of those who dug it.
As I approached the tunnel's south entrance, a blast of cold air hit my face. In the video, you can hear that constant, almost ghostly wind blowing through the tunnel from end to end. At that moment, I was reminded of the stories of those who worked there in extreme conditions. Most of them were political prisoners , forced into hard labor under the " work-out " system, a disguised form of legal slavery under the Franco regime.
Between 1941 and 1945, more than 500 inmates formed part of two penal detachments that built the first 500 meters of the tunnel. With the 1945 amnesty, many of those men and their families settled in a makeshift village at the tunnel's Burgos entrance, where the ruins of a small, brambling church still stand. There, amid obligatory masses and dynamite , this monumental mess was forged.
Not only did the prisoners live in that town, but also their families and the freed workers who continued the work after the pardons. Remains are still visible: the church cross, the empty track path, the station stop that never saw a train arrive.
Walking there is like listening to the echoes of the voices of those who are no longer here, of those “ train passengers ” who never arrived.
You can also see the signs of the titanic work carried out here: more than 600,000 kilos of dynamite , 70 tons of steel and almost two decades of effort without reward.
Entering the tunnel is prohibited for safety reasons (there have been landslides and collapsed areas). A wall blocks it, although some have opened a gap that allows a view inside and a chance to feel the cold wind blowing in from Cantabria. Despite this, the surrounding area makes for a fascinating and very cool hiking route in summer, ideal for lovers of industrial archaeology and rural tourism with a sense of accomplishment.
The La Engaña Tunnel Greenway takes advantage of this former Santander-Mediterranean railway line. The route, suitable for hikers and cyclists, traverses diverse landscapes and connects small rural towns with significant heritage and natural beauty.
The best-known and most accessible section starts in the town of Santelices and reaches the entrance to the La Engaña tunnel, covering about 6 kilometers of very easy route , with a gentle slope, ideal for both walking and strolling or cycling.
The path crosses the Engaña Valley and passes over a panoramic viaduct, offering spectacular views of the natural surroundings.
Furthermore, restoration projects are underway. The Yera station will be rehabilitated as a tourist hostel and visitor center thanks to European funding, with the aim of revitalizing the area and turning it into a benchmark for active and heritage tourism in northern Spain.
The tunnel's name seems almost prophetic. It's no coincidence that it's called La Engaña. That's the name of the river that runs through it , but it also seems like a cruel metaphor: a deception for those who built it, for those who planned it, and, in a way, for all of us. A tunnel that promised modernity and connection, and ended up being a monument to neglect.
Despite its dilapidated state, the tunnel has served as a setting for several films. In 2003, "The Life That Awaits You" was filmed there, and in 2013, a movie titled "White Night." It's curious how this place, condemned to oblivion, continues to find ways to tell stories.
Visiting the Tunnel of Deception isn't just a day trip. It's a way to hear the echoes of a time that left scars, to recognize the dignity of those who worked there, and to observe how nature, little by little, is reclaiming what was always its own.
How to get thereFrom Burgos, the easiest way is to take a bus to Villarcayo and then a taxi to the tunnel, although the final road is in poor condition and difficult to reach. Another option is to drive to Pedrosa de Valdeporres and from there take a marked trail that leads to the southern entrance of the tunnel.
On the Cantabrian side, you can access it from Vega de Pas, a town famous for its sobaos and quesadas, where you can recharge your batteries after the hike.
There are no bars or services in the immediate vicinity of the tunnel, so it's best to be prepared. What you do find is silence, wind, greenery... and a story worth telling.
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