Paris without being taken for a fool: our favorite addresses in the Marais

Eiffel Tower, Montmartre, Saint-Germain-des-Prés, the Marais, the Champs-Élysées… In Paris's most touristy neighborhoods, finding quality, reasonably priced places with attentive service can be a challenge. All week long, Libération offers you its top tips for authentic, non-touristy eateries. In our first episode, we take a gourmet stroll through the Marais.

"Välkomna!" In the courtyard of the Swedish Institute on Rue Payenne, the large blackboard at Café Fika welcomes us—in the absence of a tall blond. Once we've overcome our disappointment, we head to the counter for a morning pastry: a kanelbulle (€3.50). This Scandinavian cultural venue, housed in a 16th-century mansion, hides one of the most beautiful terraces in Paris. The cobbled courtyard, with its green wall, is a relaxing haven, ideal for starting the day—it comes alive in the evening for aperitifs, if we're to believe the menu (which also informs us of the existence of Swedish cider).

We're in the starting blocks to launch an assault on the neighborhood. We've crisscrossed the Marais from end to end over the past twenty years. Even if prices have, like everywhere else, skyrocketed, the neighborhood retains its tranquil atmosphere when you lose yourself in its cobbled streets, preferably during the week. We've accumulated a lot of memories there, the falafels devoured on Rue des Rosiers, the breaks in the hidden squares (our favorite: the Jardin Jo