He searched for water with a pendulum in desert lands, fell in love with high-altitude wines, and opened a stunning museum: a trip to the vineyards of "Mad Hess."

Ochre, reddish, gray, and even violet hills ; thistles that break the desert horizon with their upright, rounded, and spiky silhouettes; gravel roads that zigzag and cross dry rivers that seem torrential during the rainy season; small towns that appear and disappear in a flash; people drying red peppers on the side of the road; colorful textiles that contrast with the adobe walls.

Arriving at the Colomé winery , nestled in the Calchaquí Valleys near Molinos, Salta province, is all that and more. It's also a stop off Route 68 and a moment of contemplation, surrounded by the Amphitheater formation in the Quebrada de las Conchas. Or taking a moment to eat and enjoy some wine on the terrace of Amalaya —part of the Colomé Group—which overlooks the beautiful vineyards of Cafayate .

Or, for the more adventurous, already on National Route 40 , continue along a trail to reach the El Ventisquero viewpoint in the Angastaco Natural Monument protected area. It takes no more than 10 minutes, and the view is spectacular.

On the way to or from Colomé , depending on the route taken, one can also stop to admire the work of the weavers on the Seclantás Artisans' Path , walk through the streets of Cachi and visit its iconic church , or keep your eyes glued to the window during the winding route up Cuesta del Obispo .

Between ups and downs and gravel, the road to the winery is neither easy nor short, but perhaps that's where much of its magic lies. Because anyone who ventures into this old hacienda—which, in addition to the winery and vineyards, houses a boutique hotel, a restaurant, and the popular James Turrell Museum—will understand the privilege of being in such a unique, spectacular, and unforgettable place.

It is 2,300 meters above sea level and 3 and a half / 4 hours by car from Cafayate along National Route 40 (130 km).

Founded in 1831 , Colomé is the oldest continuously operating winery in Argentina . Its current identity began to take shape in 2001 with the arrival of Swiss-born Donald Hess and his wife Úrsula , who completely transformed the place from wine production to wine tourism, sustainability, and improvements to the lives of the local community, the Colomé area, home to some 50 families (600 people).

We arrived at the hotel after dark, so we first fell in love with the enormous rooms (there are 9, two of which are Master Suites), where in the darkness we could make out a private terrace that—we would discover the next day—invites us to relax and enjoy the landscape of mountains and vineyards.

From there, the hours accumulate sensations, stories, smiles, flavors, passions.

A walk among the ancient vineyards and the Misterioso wine , a special batch of white wine that can only be drunk in Colomé. The cool, semi-darkness of the historic original winery building, still standing, with its enormous tanks and taps on the wall. The scent of lavender and the sound of water running in the central fountain greet you in the morning as you leave your room in search of breakfast (all delicious and made right there).

We continue: the charm of an al fresco lunch and cuisine inspired by Patricia Courtois (winner of the Baron B Grand Prix). A horseback ride among cacti and vineyards. The experience at the surprising James Turrell Museum, designed specifically for Colomé, where you put your body, senses, and emotions into each work. Or a dinner that kicks off with a more informal and cozy get-together, featuring delicious meat empanadas.

And the opportunity, time and again, to taste and learn about different wines ; about the work, research, and passion of Donald and the entire team, including agricultural engineers and winemakers, to create each of the wines we now enjoy by the glass.

The story of what we see today at Colomé begins when , in 1996, Donald Hess came to South America in search of "the best wines." He visited Chile and, yes, Mendoza as well. Nothing convinced him.

While on vacation in northern Argentina, he tasted a glass of wine that shook him and set him on a journey through Colomé's story, and also the life of the Hess family. It was time to start thinking about "the best high-altitude wines."

And this altitude thing is something we'll be hearing a lot these days. There are key concepts that are part of the identity that emerge in conversations with those who work there, and they are repeated over and over again: "exceptional wines," "sustainable practices," "extreme altitude," "thermal range," "microclimate," "intense sun exposure."

Hess started with the vineyards of El Arenal, at 2,600 meters above sea level, and soon after was able to purchase Colomé, at 2,300 meters above sea level. All this was part of an adventure filled with anecdotes , including the search for land with groundwater and its pendulum swings, the frustrated visits to Colomé due to a swollen river that persistently blocked the passage, and the purchase of acres where others saw only a vast desert. The more enthusiastic the Swiss became about his projects in the north, the more his fame as "Crazy Hess" grew.

In 2004, Frenchman Thibaut Delmotte joined the team. He was 26 years old at the time, had just graduated as an oenologist, and was traveling through South America. While passing through Salta, someone told him about Hess's work, and he sent his resume.

With a rented Corsa and much later than the scheduled time, the young winemaker arrived in Colomé for the job interview, still unable to believe there were people working in such a remote place.

“Donald told me he had a vineyard planted in Payogasta, that he had purchased land at an even higher altitude for another vineyard, and that he was planning to build a winery for a million liters of wine. I asked him if he had read my CV , because I clearly didn't have the experience for a project like that. He replied with something that struck a chord with me: 'Don't worry, we'll grow together,'” Thibaut says.

What seemed impossible would cease to be so with the push of "Mad Hess." And Thibaut stayed.

Donald died in early 2023, but his legacy lives on, and currently Larissa and Christoph Ehrbar, the second generation of the family, are at the helm of the business, accompanied by a great team, many of whom have been part of this project since its inception.

Heading to Salta airport to return home, Colomé's return trip is extended with a stop in El Arenal, from where we climb to Altura Máxima , a vineyard at 3,111 meters above sea level, one of the highest in the world (there is one in Tibet that holds the record: it is at 3,563 meters).

A table on the veranda of the “founder’s house”—built by Hess and now used for winery meetings and events—overlooking the plantations, the barbecue, and potato and egg salad circulating among the diners.

Once again, Thibaut's voice dominates, uncorking every time he opens a bottle and transmits his passion with fervor. Once again, the glasses on the table become a parade of labels that mark the weight and power of altitude (we tried Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir, and Malbec from Altura Máxima, as well as Malbec from El Arenal).

We take one last look at the vineyards, load up our water bottles for the journey, and, as our emotions fade between the curves of Cuesta del Obispo, I try to imagine Donald, more than 20 years ago, reaching these landscapes for the first time and achieving what seemed impossible.

For Colomé guests, there is a program with activities at exclusive times (historical walk through old vineyards, old winery, new winery with wine tasting, and Turrell Museum).

For day visits, open Tuesday through Sunday by reservation.