The Secrets to Looking Good in a Golf Shirt

For many people the golf shirt is the de facto work uniform. For others it might serve as a trusty look for a Friday Happy Hour, or the ready-to-go throw-on shirt for running around town. The ever-versatile golf shirt is all those things and more. You don’t have to play golf to wear one, but you should know what makes them different and how to best work them into your routine.

The roots of the golf shirt spring from the world of tennis, and, specifically, the English tradition of tennis players wearing “all whites” as the sport’s standard uniform. Both tennis players and golfers wore button-down oxford shirts—and often ties—when playing. This denoted a certain sense of class and place in society. The look might have pleased the high-society types, but it didn’t do much for comfort or performance. In 1928, Frenchman René Lacoste (nicknamed “The Crocodile,” hence the logo) cut the sleeves off his shirt and built a global company around the fashionable and functional shirts.

The tennis player Rene Lacoste in 1927 wearing what would become known as a polo or golf shirt.

We often call these shirts polo shirts because the cut resembled what was worn by players in the Indian state of Manipur who played a stick-and-ball game on horseback and called their ball the pulu, which the colonizing British understood as polo. Call them what you like, but for the purpose of this story, I'll be referring to them exclusively as golf shirts.

Today, the golf shirt tells people that the man wearing it moves about with a certain sense of decorum. It’s unlikely you’ll wear one to a job interview or a wedding, but when worn properly it can be among the most flexible pieces in your closet. In a world of $100 t-shirts, the golf shirt shows that you care enough about the setting and the people you’re sharing it with to bring a heightened level of style to the table. But don't assume that simply wearing a collar denotes style. What's essential is choosing the right golf shirt, because the wrong fit, color, or material will you make you look sloppier than the guy in the t-shirt. The correct golf shirt for your body will give you confidence, because the most stylish men in golf shirts—whether they're pros, actors, or the buddy in your foursome—also possess an undeniable swagger. Here's how to achieve that.

When looking at golf shirts it’s important that you and your body determine what type of golf shirt you should be wearing. Not the name on the label, not what your friends are wearing, but what shirt will best suit you. Keep in mind, a more fitted shirt might not compliment your dad bod the way a more relaxed fit will. On the flip side, a cut that is too relaxed can leave you looking lost in billows of fabric.

A big part of achieving proper fit is understanding the architecture of a shirt and how it can work for you. A golf shirt consists of the collar, the placket (the opening at the neck), the body panels, the sleeves, and, in some cases, yokes, which is the portion around the shoulders.

The actor Sidney Poitier, an avid golfer who participated in celebrity pro-am tournaments, achieves the perfect fit in 1965.

The sleeve is a good indicator for gauging size and fit. The sleeve seam (where the sleeve meets the body panel) should hit really close to where your shoulder bones end. If you find the sleeve seam is sliding down the meaty part of your shoulder, your shirt is probably a size too big. A sleeve that extends all the way to your elbow joint is another sign that you might be rocking the wrong size.

Rory McIlory wears a golf shirt with cuffed sleeves in 2024. Fuzzy Zoeller looks cool as hell in a cuffed-sleeve Lacoste shirt in 1980.

Speaking of sleeves, there are two types: cuffed, in which the bottom of the sleeve hugs your bicep, and open, in which it hangs loosely. If, for example, you’re going on a first date and want to show off the work you’ve put in at the gym, a cuffed sleeve is going to help you get that message across subtly. An open sleeve might be a better option if you’re going to be sitting in team-building meetings all day.

Once you’ve established that the sleeve seam is in the right place, it’s time to look at the body panels of the shirt to ensure it sits on your torso properly and comfortably. You want some space—nobody needs to see your nipples and clumps of chest hair pressing tightly against the front panel of your shirt. Thankfully, many clothiers offer a few different cuts, like a relaxed fit or a more tailored option. Whichever version you choose, the shirt should allow for some movement and circulation of air between your skin and the fabric.

Tommy Fleetwood goes all black in an open-sleeved golf shirt in 2024. Gary Player does the monochromatic, open-sleeved look in 1986.

Length can also be an important part of the golf shirt. If you prefer to wear it untucked, a too-long shirt can throw off the balance of your entire look. You also run the risk of falling outside the Rule of Thirds, which is a general design guideline that tells us a shirt should take up no more than one-third of the outfit. Many golf shirts are designed with a little added length to ensure they stay tucked in when a player swings, so be aware of that if you’re the untucking type.

In terms of when to tuck, it’s still a free country so do what makes you happy. However, there are some situations that absolutely call for it: work, dates, church services, and any time you’re wearing it with a sport coat.

Harrison Ford dresses up a golf shirt underneath a blazer for a screening of Raiders of the Lost Ark in 1981.

Most plackets you’ll see on the market are two or three buttons in depth. We’re also seeing a revival of the four-button look and even some intelligent zipper plackets. For a brief time in the aughts you’d see people buttoning golf shirts all the way to the neck, but those dark days are mostly behind us. Free up the buttons for comfort, folks. Also, if you’ve got a wider neck, the more buttons the better.

Adam Scott wears a golf shirt with a zipper placket and a popped collar. Chi Chi Rodriguez buttons all the way up in 1965.

Do not snooze on the importance of the collar. In certain settings, I’m a collar popper. Nobody needs the intensity of the sun bludgeoning their neck. Defend yourself with your collar. If you’re wearing a sport coat over the golf shirt, which is a great look, especially a deconstructed sport coat, a deeper hard collar will likely serve you better than the common soft collar most shirts feature.

The traditional golf shirt is 100 percent cotton—though not all cotton shirts are created equal. A piqué cotton is the most durable but can feel abrasive. A Pima cotton shirt feels like silk in comparison to a piqué and can cost more.

Tom Holland, an avid golfer, demonstrates the power of a simple, clean, well-fitting golf shirt.

Most shirts on the market today, however, feature some blend of cotton and Lycra or spandex. These blends are convenient, comfortable, and often eliminate the need for any ironing. There are drawbacks as the synthetic materials can trap odor and irritate sensitive skin. In many cases, they’re better left on the golf course because the performance materials suggest a more casual look.

The athleisure space is crowded with golf shirts that are made with far less cotton and more nylon and other synthetics. If you’re into that kind of stuff, keep an eye open for shirts that feature some kind of venting.

Hang drying is best. Button the placket all the way up and fold the collar appropriately; you want your shirt to dry in the shape it was built to be worn. Also, never let an iron touch your golf shirt. Steam is the way to go.

If your golf shirt is Day-Glo anything, throw it away. You don’t work on a highway road crew, so don’t dress like it. If you are a golfer, ask yourself how seamlessly your shirt can go from the course to the office. Harsh patterns or colors can limit versatility.

Club and tournament logos are fine as long as you know they can serve as an invitation for conversation and, at times, confer the reputation of the club or event onto the person wearing the logo.

A golf shirt and jeans? Absolutely. In a photo from 1978, Clint Eastwood shows how the look can prove timeless.

A four-button, hard-collar golf shirt is a must for any wardrobe and you won’t regret having a few. These are the easiest shirts to dress up as they pair well with a jacket and most offer the added functionality of a chest pocket. The gold standard for this category is the Johnnie-O 4-Button and the Sugarloaf Social Club Sport Pocket Polo. If you prefer three buttons, the B-Draddy Liam is an excellent choice.

The iconic two-button placket with a cuffed sleeve is an essential. There are two heavyweights in this arena: Lacoste and Polo Ralph Lauren. Both Lacoste and Polo offer various cuts to help you find the best fit for you, so be sure to try a few out. If you prefer a logo-less shirt for less, Banana Republic won’t let you down.

As for performance shirts, Wilson tops my list—modern yet classic designs with intelligent features like venting and zipper plackets. The Player’s Seamless 2.0 is the most comfortable shirt I’ve worn. Something a little more elegant that doesn’t feel like performance wear can be found at Dunning Golf. They also make my favorite long-sleeve polo. A favorite of golf shops everywhere, Peter Millar makes some of the best performance wear in a rich palette of colors with playful yet tactful patterns.

If you’re looking to make a statement and live on the edge, J. Lindeberg remains an expertly crafted brand. For those who want to really stand out, Nation Golf somehow blends mid-century modern, skate culture, and a dash of tiki bar into their shirts. You will be noticed. Finally, Malbon offers a wide range of fits, fabrics, and some of the most provocative designs in the game.

Just remember, as the old saying goes, “If it looked good twenty years ago, it will look good twenty years from now.” A simple, crisp, golf shirt that fits you well can convey elegance or a sense of ease. How you wear it is up to you.